In our quest for ever more scenic waterfalls, we were told by many people that the waterfalls at the Cascada Restaurant were mas bonita (the most beautiful). After the one near Dominicalito we visited the last two days and the one on our mountain we saw our first week, we thought that claim might be hard to prove, but today we found it to be wholly true.
We left about 9am, planning to spend most of the day at this location, which had been highly recommended by Sonia at the Information Center and others. After a 20 minute ride on the “hard road” south to Ojochal and then a few miles more, we turned off on a dirt road with the sign, 4km to Tilapia en Pavon (I haven’t quite figured out this translation, but I think it’s “Fish on Parade”).
It’s a family run fish hatchery in the mountains. When we got closer the signs said we could catch our own fish and they would cook it for us. Samuel was very excited about fishing.
Eventually we arrived and found a sprawling establishment encompassing 8 or 10 fish ponds, the restaurant, paths to the waterfall, and an ancient water pump that the owner was very proud to show off. It takes water from the river and runs it into the ponds, providing fresh water for them and pushing the fish through as they mature in size.
He spoke some English, so I explained that we wanted to visit the waterfall and swim, and then come back and catch fish and eat lunch. He was only too happy to oblige, since we were the only customers he saw the whole time we were there. It’s his off season, and it was a weekday lunchtime. We think he probably has more business on weekends and in the evenings. He led us down a short mountain path, and soon we heard and saw the river. These waterfalls are actually a series of small and medium sized falls, with lots of small pools everywhere. Some of the water is a very strong torrent, while some looks less fierce.
It being the rainy season, the river was swollen and rushing fast. He showed no fear in kicking off his flip-flops and diving in the deepest water and strongest current. We needed a little more time to warm up to the idea.
Our guide grabbed samuel and whisked him over the rocks to the edge of a pool. Amy was a little panicked that she'd next see Samuel bobbing down the rapids. Pretty soon Samuel got brave and jumped in, with dad helping him maneuver in one of the safer areas.
I climbed up on an outcropping and jumped in, too.
Amy got in after a while, and so did Sarah for a few minutes. She was a little afraid of the loud and fast-moving force of the water.
Eventually our guide returned and we all made our way back to the fishery. We were given baited hooks on crude fishpoles, and shown which pool to fish in. Samuel was the first to catch one, and it was a biggie. He later ate it for lunch.
The rest of us weren’t so lucky, but I did manage to snatch a slightly smaller fish at one point (zoom in).
Due to the time of day and heat, no other fish wanted to bite, so the owner had Sarah and Samuel use a cast net to pull about a dozen fish out of the pond.
He chose 3 for us, and they were scaled, gutted and fried in a matter of minutes. We had big plates of fish, rice, yucca root (potato-like root vegetable), plantains, and salad. They also made us 2 huge pitchers of a delicious refresco of carambola juice (we know them as star fruit),cano sugar and water, with some carrot thrown in for color. Everybody enjoyed eating the whole fishes.
I even got to comb my hair with a fishbone.
We left, full but happy. Our next stop was at one of our favorite beaches. Playa de la Ventanas is the one with the caves that we saw our second week. I wanted especially to get some audio of the crashing and booming water inside these tunnels that run from the beach through to the open sea, which I did. I just have to figure out where to post the recordings to share them.
We swam in the outgoing tide and very clear water for about an hour.
On our first visit, after we parked on a very rutted road, we had to turn back because the footpath was so muddy and steep we couldn’t make it. On our second visit it was drier and more passable.
Today, the entrerprising owners of an adjacent property were set up on the road, offering to both watch your car while you used the beach, and to allow passage through their semi-abandoned coconut plantation to the beach, all for one small fee ($1 per person). This proved to be a great improvement, and we made the walk in minutes through groves of cocnut palms and exotic plants.
Pipa Fria
When we left we were offered pipa fria refreshments. This coastal specialty is found everywhere. Here’s how we think it works. The seller harvests green (immature) coconuts, and drains the milk, which is not sweet but almost tart. The milk is mixed with water and sugar until a flavorful mix results. Then it is “piped” back into the coconut shell, which seals itself around the pipe-hole. When you buy one (for $1), the seller slices off a piece of the husk with a machete, and a drinking straw is pushed throught the white meat to access the liquid inside.
It’s a very refreshing drink after the beach, and it costs the seller almost nothing to make, since coconuts are found everywhere here. Of course the best part is clowning around with the shells afterwards.
(Amy made me post this one).
More tomorrow. Please comment!
hey you guys. way to go samwell,catch a big fish for me.
ReplyDeleteHi - From Queensbury. Am out of superlatives. Wish you'd have told WHAT KIND OF FISH IT WAS! Sure doesn't look like a trout. Love you all - from The North Country. KEEP 'EM COMING!
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